From the centre of Seoul, we take the Blue Subway Line 4, and alight at Hyehwa (Exit 2). After a decent uphill stroll, we find ourselves at the next stop on the Seoul Train.
Street art might be a train station’s worst fear – but can it breathe new life into the old? And what happens, when normality becomes irrevocably intertwined with all the elements of modern tourism?
Welcome to Ihwa Mural Village, a small residency on the mountainsides of Seoul. A ‘moon village‘, it was one of Seoul’s oldest neighbourhoods. Home to the working class and elderly, and having missed the train to modernity, Ihwa-dong was earmarked for demolition – but instead, the government sought to revitalise the area, inviting over 70 artists to reinvigorate the character of the quiet village.
And revitalise the artists certainly did, with colour murals of cartooned figures and vibrant expressions splashed over walls, stairs and house fronts. And, as planned, the tourists flocked, eager to see the lively spirit of a sleepy mountainside village. Yet unfortunately, the locals were to endure the many negative externalities of modern tourism.
Accompanying the tourists arrived noise, litter, and graffiti. Disgruntled, many murals were removed at residents’ requests, and several popular ones were even painted over by locals. Now, signs remind travellers to be respectful, and every online travel guide has a strongly recommended etiquette guide.
Indeed, the government had intended for Ihwa-dong to become a cultural space for both tourists and locals. To this point, in every sense, the village is an ‘official’ tourist attraction – with all the negative implications of modern tourism. And while tensions between tourists and locals have simmered, it is fascinating to ponder what normality now means for residents – how normal can it be, having tourists meander down your street, every single day? Certainly, the village received a new lease on life – but at what cost?
Tapping off.
Lachie
Sources:
https://magazine.seoulselection.com/2015/04/01/ihwa-mural-village/
Ihwa Mural Village: A Guide & Guidelines For Seeing The Area
Riding the Seoul Train 
Lachie’s structure and format of the blog is very well-constructed along with images supporting the narrative. Starting with directions from Seoul to Ihwa Mural Village, the blog grabbed my attention immediately, the descriptive beginning allowed readers to feel like they are travelling too. All the thought provoking rhetorical questions are able to get the readers to think deeply about the issue discussed in the blog. As a suggestion, maybe consider to include some links to other resources incase if readers would like to know more about the ‘moon village’. Furthermore, the writer did a good job in an attempt to not sugar-coat the situation, but present it as it is.
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